REVIEW: Le Peche Mignon – Agencourt, France
We had some spectacular meals during our stay in Burgundy – everything from modern bistros to old-school chateaux. With the top quality produce in the region and the dedication to its cuisine it’s no wonder that the region has recently been declared a UNESCO world heritage site.
Le Peche Mignon (which I think translates roughly as The Guilty Secret) had been recommended to us by the local tourism office.
It was a bit out of the way, on a road that didn’t really lead to anywhere of significance. As we pulled into the carpark it was hard to hide the disappointment on our faces. The appearance was underwhelming in every sense – you would describe it as a small country road-side shack.
But we were ready for lunch and didn’t have any other options on the table, so decided to make the best of it – have a quick snack, and then be on our way to more glamorous places.
I can, without doubt, hand-on-heart, say that this was the best meal that we had on the entire trip.
Perhaps partly because we approached the meal with low expectations, but mainly because of the excellent cooking.
Front of house were an entertaining mother and son team. She didn’t speak any English and although our French was passable enough to get by in a restaurant, she insisted on calling her son over to translate into English her explanations of various aspects of the meal.
While enjoying some gougere pastries to begin (choux pastry flavored with cheese), we opted for a set menu.
Our starter was a poached egg in a mushroom and wine broth – it sounds unusual but was really very delicious. This is a style of dish common across Burgundy. The owner’s son proudly explained that he had picked the mushrooms – Ceps and Girolle – across in the wood that was visible through the windows of the restaurant.
Main course was trout served with vegetables from the restaurant’s garden, and then dessert was a spectacular peach mousse served with a blackcurrant sorbet.
Just as the owner was offering us coffee, the restaurant’s electricity went down as the result of a storm that was sweeping through the valley. Instead of coffee, the chef came out of the kitchen to talk to us about his food – he’s a friend of the owner. Having worked in Michelin-starred kitchens he has taken charge of the kitchen at this relatively new venture.
La Peche Mignon was busy – this is clearly a place that is popular with the locals.
We may have entered with low expectations, but we left reluctantly, singing the praises Le Peche Mignon.
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Gareth Johnson
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